For many years, Southern California has been home to surfing, places such as Malibu, Santa Monica, Venice Beach, Huntington Beach, to name a few, have been very popular. Few would only know about the hidden secret of Mavericks located just 20 miles south of San Francisco. In 1975, Jeff Clark was the first documented person to surf Mavericks, which is one of the biggest waves in the world in the toughest conditions. It is believed that a trio of surfer in the mid-1960s were the first to attempt to paddle out to the surf, but turned back because of the hazardous conditions.[i]
Map of Half Moon Bay, California. Digital image. Surf Forecast. Web. 2 May 2017.
At the young age of 17 years old, he lived a couple of miles from Half Moon Bay, where Mavericks is located.[ii] He studied the wave a bunch of times before paddling out to get a feel for it. He tried to convince his friends to paddle out with him, but to no avail. In the winter of 1975, a big northeast swell of waves over 30 feet were calling Jeff Clark’s name to finally paddle out and give it a shot. He began riding the wave on his left because he was goofy footed, but eventually switched to a regular stance, which is left foot forward in order to surf the right on his forehand.[iii]
Grant, Ed. “They’ve Forgotten the Whole Reason I Started This,” Said Jeff Clark. “It’s to Showcase the Surfers – the Best Big Wave Surfers in Northern California. Once You Move from That, You’re Missing the Point.” Digital image. The Inertia. 6 May 2011. Web. 2 May 2017.
Just to put into perspective what Jeff Clark was able to accomplish, he had to battle against the toughest surfing conditions one could ever find. First of all, the conditions have to be perfect in order for the waves to reach extreme heights. Typically a big and clean northeast swell in the winter is ideal for big wave surfers. Just paddling out is tough enough for someone to easily give up as one has to battle strong rip currents through a channel surrounded by rocks for half a mile in 50 degree water temperatures. Once you reach the lineup, you still have to constantly paddle in order to be in a position where the waves will not break on you. Once in position to catch the incoming wave, similar to other big wave surfing spots such as Waimea Bay, the drop is big and one has to maintain balance at all times in order to stay in control. Surfers describe going down Mavericks like going down a mountain being chased by an avalanche similar to trying to escape the walls of water from the break of the wave. A wipeout from these big waves can cause a surfer to be under water for as much as 4 minutes!
Lineup at Mavericks. Digital image. The Inertia. 16 Oct. 2012. Web. 2 May 2017.
It would take until 1990 for word to spread out about Mavericks and has attracted the best surfers from around the world for surfing competitions in the winter, known as the Titans of Mavericks. The immense popularity that this spot has gained, unfortunately has led to the deaths of Dion Milosky, Jay Moriarty, and Mark Foo. Clark depicts the experience of Mavericks as, “that no matter how prepared you are, you’re in Neptune’s playground.”[iv]
Today, Jeff Clark’s secret behind Mavericks would not be hidden for long because of the increased media exposure from 40 years ago.
Primary
Riding Giants. Dir. Stacy Peralta. Perf. Greg Noll, Laird Hamilton. Sony Pictures Classics, 2004. Riding Giants. Web. 3 May 2017.
Grant, Ed. “They’ve Forgotten the Whole Reason I Started This,” Said Jeff Clark. “It’s to Showcase the Surfers – the Best Big Wave Surfers in Northern California. Once You Move from That, You’re Missing the Point.” Digital image. The Inertia. 6 May 2011. Web. 2 May 2017.
Lineup at Mavericks. Digital image. The Inertia. 16 Oct. 2012. Web. 2 May 2017.
Mavericks 2016. 12 Feb. 2016. Web. 3 May 2017.
Conquer Your Wave. Perf. Jeff Clark. TED Talk. 10 May 2016. Web. 3 May 2017.
Secondary
[i] “Titans of Mavericks › History.” Titans of Mavericks. Web. 18 Apr. 2017.
[ii] Haro, Alexander. “A Short History of Maverick’s: Myth, Legend, and the Truth Behind the Name.” The Inertia. 02 Apr. 2015. Web. 18 Apr. 2017.
[iii] Haro
[iv] Haro
Map of Half Moon Bay, California. Digital image. Surf Forecast. Web. 2 May 2017.
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